I spent the month of March, 2008 in Puerto Escondido, in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, on the Pacific coast. It is not a big tourist destination, and has been largely bypassed by international hotels. But surfers from many countries make their way here to enjoy what they call the “Mexican pipe”, the amazing surf at kilometres-long Playa Zicatela. I walked barefoot along that beach before breakfast, photographing surfistas. Professional photographers were sometimes out there too, with huge zoom lenses.
There is not a lot to do in this town which in itself is hardly scenic. I got to see a great variety of birds at a nearby lagoon. Between 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. the heat was oppressive, and I usually took cover. The hotel had an excellent pool in a shady tropical garden. Then there was always a wonderful sunset, and a nice choice of restaurants along the beach. The English-language newspaper from Mexico City arrived early in the evening most days.
I flew to the state capital Oaxaca for festive Easter weekend. It was a matter of minutes in a 14-seater Cessna instead of 6 to 8 hours of drive over mountain roads. The city has preserved its colonial architecture, and the centre was alive with activity. It has an impressive botanical garden not to be missed. Nearby Monte Albán is an astonishing, even awesome archeological site.
As in much of Mexico, the water is not potable. I took precautions suggested at a travel clinic, including a shot for typhoid and cholera, and preventive medicine for malaria and E. coli, and got through the month in good health.